Issue 39 — Recent Bites: Lisbon 🦐🍷
If you like Barra Santos...
Lisbon is like the San Francisco of Europe - it’s super hilly, right on the water… foggy mornings tend to break into sunny afternoons. The Ponte 25 de Abril bridge looks strikingly similar to the Golden Gate. 🌁
I spent a week there with my family wining, dining, and walking (a lot). Pro tip: Go with your sister who travels every chance she gets and has been to Lisbon thrice.
I’m not calling this a guide — just simply sharing where we went.
Coffee: The Coffee
Pastries / Breakfast: Camoba, Piriquita, Manteigaria
Snacks: Sol E Pesca, Casa Portuguesa do Pastel Bachalau, Empanar
Dinner: Mesón Andaluz, Lupita, Senhor Uva, Ponto Final, Bairro do Avillez
Drinks: Mini Bar, By the Wine, Holy Wine, Ginjina Sem Rival
For next time: Vago, Boavista Social Club, Oficio, Da Noi, Toca Da Raposa, Mini Bar + By the Wine for dinner (not just drinks)
I like to form a little routine when I travel. Maybe it’s taking the same walk each morning, or hitting the same 4pm happy hour a few times. Just a small thing to keep me grounded.
Finding a coffee shop walking distance from where I’m staying is kind of the best case scenario. With several locations in Lisbon (and 9 other countries) The Coffee became my routine this trip.
The Coffee
‘The best of Brazilian coffee combined with the purity and perfectionism of Japan.’ They have a super streamlined ipad ordering process which I actually appreciated considering 1) I’m showing up pre-caffeine and 2) I don’t speak Portuguese.
Lupita
Lupita happens to be next to The Coffee — and came highly recommended by the barista AND by my friend, Annie. The garlic bread was insane, pizza — perfect, wine — natural. Get the chimichurri for dipping.
Senhor Uva
Pplant based food and natural wine — we fired the menu, went through 3 bottles and 4 dessert pours (thanks to our somm, Justin). Port is growing on me. Standouts were the jackfruit ceviche + the mushrooms.
Mesón Andaluz
Probably the most memorable thing I ate on this trip was this gazpacho — poured over a scoop of herby cucumber anchovy sorbet. The textural / flavor contrast was so unexpected. Really interested in recreating this… (This reel shows it better) Potato bombs + hot garlicy shrimp were important on the table too.
Páteo + Mini Bar at Bairro do Avillez
Bairro do Avillez is like 4 restaurants in 1 — Taberna (tavern); a Páteo where seafood and fish are king; Mini Bar, a restaurant and gastro bar; and Pizzaria Lisboa… All by the Michelin recognized chef José Avillez.
The grilled sea bass was delicious, but even more memorable was the smashed potato with olives and basil oil — almost like bed of gnocchi. I also had a stunning purist caipirinha here.
After dinner, Faby led us in to the not-so-hidden gastro Mini Bar in the back for one final drink. I could tell once we stepped in, we should definitely return for a full dinner.
Empanar
My sister and I came across Empanar walking along the funicular route. Cozy Argentinian spot for a quick drink + empanada.
Camoba
Bright little brunch spot… matcha pancakes, vegan options + lattes. Outfit pics are def taken here. Go in between breakfast and lunch so you can try things from both menus. We loved this galette.
Sol E Pesca on Pink Street!
Will go anywhere Tony has been, especially when tinned fish is involved. I actually liked the marinated beans more than anything — something I will making at home more.
Ponto Final Restaurante
We took a ferry across the river for this seafood spot. When you get off the boat, you follow the water along a ledge — about a 10 minute walk. That’s when you realize you can’t have too much to drink at dinner. You’ll have to walk back in a food coma, 2 bottles deep.
We probably over ordered. They don’t fuck around here, fish is served whole. My cod fritters came with the most comforting pot of rice and beans that truly got better the longer it sat. Oysters came served with lime — made me think of Loreto in Frogtown. Fun with a group, romantic for a date. Worth the little trek.
Casa Portuguesa do Pastel De Bacalhau
2 traditional Portuguese flavors, brought together in 1 bacalhau — a cod fritter stuffed with a sharp sheep’s cheese. A perfect afternoon bite, pairs perfectly with a glass of port.
Manteigaria Fabrica De Pastéis de Nata
I was told by multiple people that Manteigaria has better pastéis de nata than the original (and super busy) Pastéis de Belém. So naturally we tried both. I can’t say there was enough of a difference to feel strongly about it — so if you want to avoid lines, Manteigaria will more than satisfy your tart craving. Highly encourage the optional cinnamon dusting…
When I saw Bella Baxter eat a bunch of these in Poor things, I knew I had to try them.
Casa Piriquita, Sintra
(I liked these better than the pastéis de nata) Sintra’s very own pillow pastry, Travesseiro. Stuffed with a sweet, eggy almond cream and dusted with sugar. A perfect fluffy treat to enjoy with a coffee.
Holy Wine
A closet of a wine bar with similar curation to Baby Bistro or El Prado — I recognized a lot of the wines. Fun if you’re missing LA or want to stand on the street with a cig.
By the Wine
Unfortunately we didn’t have a full dinner here, but we did stop by for a bottle of bubbly. 80 wine references, a variety of tapas, homemade bread, Iberian ham, salmon ceviche… Great date spot.
Ginjinha Sem Rival
I love a late night street treat, and cherry liquor is a good one. Some places serve the Ginjinha in little chocolate cups — will have to try that next time.
This trip made me especially appreciate LA’s very own Barra Santos. If you’re craving a Portuguese hint without leaving town, head to Cypress Park for some bacalhau and a porto tonic. ;) 🥂
add barra santos to your list when you choose our next “business meeting” location
Wow great summary! Fab trip with excellent foodie company!! 😘