Issue 87 — I LOVE LA
Re-Openings in Little Tokyo, A Fried Fish Sandwich (Plated) + Restaurants on the Move
Loving a place means paying attention to it, especially when it’s crying for help. Like Sorella + Mads shared, food is political. It’s community, memories… history on a plate. So let’s keep showing up for the spots that show up for us.The ones that greet you warmly and remember your name. The kitchens that band together, take care of their teams, and their community, standing up for what they believe in, and keeping our neighbors fed even when it’s all going to shit.
Support: CHIRLA, Mad Collective, Echo Park Mutual Aid
Fuck ice.
FOOD NEWS… & SORTA OLD NEWS
Azay, my favorite Japanese breakfast spot has reopened in Little Tokyo after being closed for many months due to a kitchen fire last year. I’m so glad to have them back. Next door (and in the family), Anzen reopened too. It’s a legendary hardware shop stocked with unique knives, gardening tools, and everyday things. You can get key copies made there. Open weekends or by apt only. Giving me hope…
Further Anzen reading ←
Mexico’s famous churrería, El Moro received a very warm welcome at their Echo Park opening last week.
Maybe you were scoffing at the $1,500 Noma prices. Their 16 week LA residency sold out in 60 seconds. Angel, Emily Wilson wrote about it for Bon Appétit.
Noma also announced a day-of pop-up at Courage Bagels. selling 250 bagels at $25 a pop. 🥯 Sea salt sesame bagels with oyster mushrooms, pumpkin bushi, black pepper, a savory rose fudge, with nasturtium and bergamot. I didn’t make it but, what. a. scene.
Andrew Lawson of (Étra + Telegrama) shared his V-Day picks with the Quality Edit. cute
Broken Spanish Comedor has been on my list for a while. I didn’t realize it reincarnated in this mid century architectural masterpiece? Might have to go to the west side for this one…
CLOSURES + NEW BEGINNINGS
Taix announced it’s closing March 29, and what’s taking its place will make you shed a tear.
BUT! there’s a plan in the works to move the building to Altadena…
El Condor will be closing Aug 31. They too, are hoping to move, so be sure to show them some extra support this summer. 🤞 Loved how they highlighted their staff on the last slide of their announcement.
It wouldn’t be a Horses closure without a lil sandal…
BUT! Brittany, Hannah, and Alex, former kitchen 🐎 crew, found a soft place to land at Café Triste. They’re calling their Wed-Fri residency, Bruce. Book a res here. Might need your glasses to peep their first menu though.
Big Foot Lodge is for sale for $2.25M.
Angel City Brewery announced it’s closing date, April 30.
Melody closed. For real this time.
OPENINGS & UPDATES
Kristen Stewart bought the Highland Theater. Meanwhile, the Arclight is still collecting dust…
“We want to make it a family affair, something for the community. It’s not just for pretentious Hollywood cinephiles...” — More on AD
Since the theater closed in 2024 it briefly transformed into a 1970s set for Once Upon a Time in Hollywood 2. One night walking back to my car after dinner, I stood with my neighbors on Figueroa hoping for a Brad siting. We didn’t see him.
Chifa is now serving coffee, breakfast + lunch (Arroz and Fun) starting Feb 7th. Didn’t realize they also have a late night menu from 9pm-12am! OK $11 Calamari
Mar Vista hotspot Beethoven lost its liquor license during a neighbor feud over late night noise and parking. More on Eater.
The latest buzzy new coffee shop is Granada, operating out of a home in Angeleno Heights thanks to the MEHKO program. Interested to check it out!
Nancy Silverton’s new K-Town pasta bar, Lapaba opens this week with dishes like jjajang Amatriciana + cacio e pepe tteokbokki. Our girl, Emily Ferretti shot it for Eater. (duh!) Really excited for this one…
Lapaba by Emily Ferretti for Eater Sqirl DINNER service is actually starting Feb 19 🐿️
Jon tapped Jess for more info in the Eastside Rag. The animation was made back in 2022? It’s been a long time coming… we almost forgot about Jamgate.
Goop + Canyon Coffee are both headed to NYC.
Zhengyalov Hatz opened a second location in a NoHo stripmall.
Barra Santos expanded, reopening Feb 5.
I saw Intelligentsia is moving into a large space in Santa Monica, complete with a walk up window and drive thru... Why aren’t there more drive through coffee spots in LA? I feel like we could use those… ☕️ 🚗💨
SPECIALS BOARD
Pescadito Frito at Chainsaw: Whole fried snapper, mandarinquat & 🌶️ vin, rosalba endaladita, yuca boiled and dressed with good olive oil and loads of green pepper corn. WOW
Speaking of whole fish: Piscator is popping up at Little Ripper on Sundays
Warm Bing + Carmelized Kimchi + Gouda at Majordomo
Chicory Caesar at Bub’s
Mac N Cheese + Wine for $16 at Bar Bacetti
Rainwater Sorbet at Fluffy’s lol
Hot Persimmon Tonic at Honey Hi (fave!)
Off Menu Pasta at Quarter Sheets
Celtuce at Joy
Ruby Marocchino at Kumquat (another fave!)
Heart Shaped Conchas at Delicias
Inasal Arroz Caldo, Lemongrass & Turmeric rice porridge at Kapé
The CakerJordan Rondel’s Degustation Cake is back for Valentine’s Day. Pre-order for pickup 2/14 + 2/15 in the Arts District
CPG ON THE SHELF
Logan’s Fewd x Fly By Jing Hot Pot Bomb + Hot Pot Set 🥢 launched
Trader Joes Nobu Miso Cod Dupe lollllll
Graza is launching Mayo (in both plastic and glass packaging options of course) Molly Baz congratulated them in the comments.
David Chang has been awfully quiet since Cholula dropped their Chili Crisp…
“If we did a shark tank version but only for snack brands would you watch 👀” — Snaxshot
YES.
Just curious…
I related to Emily. ‘Dry January doesn’t align with my lifestyle at the moment.’
🗓 Coming Up…
Saturdays → Tomorrow Bagels at 9am at Comet Over Delphi
Sundays → Piscator at Little Ripper
2/04 Bruce Residency starts at Cafe Triste (Wed-Fri)
2/07 Hedley & Bennet Archive Sale
2/07-8 Fren at Platform 🐾
2/08 Valentine Party at Flower’s Finest
2/12 Steep Cocktail Pop-Up at Woon
2/13 WHAN Breakfast Burritos at Collage Coffee
2/13 Love Affair presented by Cheeky’s at Nico’s
2/14 Same x Homebody Studios Mat Pilates
2/14-15 Annex House Valentines Programing
2/21-2/22 Rare Books x Abe Books Pasadena
2/24 Baby Bistro x Smithereens SOLD OUT
2/26 - 3/01 Frieze Art Fair
3/29 Taix last day of service.
RECENT BITES
Otomisan: The oldest operating Japanese restaurant in the Boyle Heights, slinging curry, tempura, udon, and sushi rolls since ‘56. It’s a no frills, teeny tiny dining room with a handful of bar stools, and a few red booths.
Perfect? Yes.
Will there be a line on a rainy day? Yes.
Obsessed with Kieran’s miniature version of the storefront…
Lobster Tortellini at Loreto: It’s always Atún Picante this, Branzino that. Don’t sleep on the pasta at Loreto. A great dish to cozy up at the bar with. Also tried the new Mexi-Thai Negroni which is perfect if you’ve ever wanted your Negroni just a little sweeter.
Little Fish Melrose Hill: My only regret is that it took me so long to make it in! But having been open a few months, they felt very settled and streamlined.
The room is gorgeous. And thank god, has some COLOR. The red floors are fun. The little fish-decor details peppered around will make you smile as you notice them. I would’ve taken more photos if I wasn’t so giddy about the company at my table and the warm welcome. But there are plenty of great pics online ofc.
Katy was raving about the tuna melt, but we were all so set on getting our own personal F.F.S. that we settled on getting a melt for the table. Perfect.
Having the fish sammie on a real plate felt special too. I cannot believe I was Venmo-ing Anna and picking up my order from a house in Echo Park (in a mask) five years ago.
Instead of starting with Kae’s fruit plate, we ended with it for dessert per Maddy’s suggestion, and I highly recommend. It felt wrong not ordering wine, but it was noon on a Thursday after all. Just another reason to go back. I can’t wait to see how sexy it is at night.
Love and support this team so much. Dispatching drivers to deliver meals during the fires felt like a fever dream… and honestly made me question my own career choices for a second.
Little Fish Forever.
🔗 Last Week’s Most Clicked Link
A New beer garden is coming to Frogtown. 🍻
**Update: LATE 2026 ‘The owners plan to offer brick oven pizza with beer-pairing driven toppings, an espresso bar with coffee and pastries, an expanded tap list and wine selection and live entertainment and music.’ — The Eastsider
azay!! aYAY!! can we reunion with monica there soon?